Tokyo, I Adore You So Much
From omakase to onsens, anything one could ever want is in Tokyo. It’s a city that’s impossible to be bored in. But more than that, and as I’ve witnessed each time I’ve visited, it’s a place defined by chance encounters, moments of unbridled clarity, the recession of ennui, even if fleetingly, a seemingly endless number of possibilities.
Anthony Bourdain once said: “The first time I came here, it was a transformative experience. It was a powerful and violent experience. It was just like taking acid for the first time-meaning, What do I do now? I see the whole world in a different way…A whole window opens up into a whole new thing. And you think, What does this mean? What do I have left to say? What do I do now?”
Every time I visit, I’m left in awe, and whenever I leave, it feels like something is missing. It’s as if a piece of myself is still there, a piece I’m unable to take with me, and the only way to be reunited with it is to return and return often. Halfway around the other side of the world, I find myself constantly thinking about what I can only describe as a dream world.
The Tokyo EDITION, Toranomon
Occupying the 31st floor of Kamiyacho Trust Tower, the lobby of The Tokyo EDITION, Toranomon bursts open into a sea of lush greenery. Parlor palms and birds of paradise captivate before revealing stunning, sweeping views of Tokyo Tower and the surrounding skyline. Tastefully arranged lanterns glowing with candlelight elevate the sophisticated atmosphere. The only way I know how to describe it is a portal to another world. As the brainchild of renowned architect Kengo Kuma and prominent hotelier Ian Schrager, EDITION combines the best of Japanese aesthetics with the brand’s iconic minimalist design. The result is an understated yet unwavering elegance.
Equally unforgettable is the experience of first stepping foot into one of the guest rooms, especially if it boasts a tower view. While February 2024 represented my return to EDITION, entering this space again was just as exciting the second time. Clean lines, recessed lighting, muted colors, and the generous use of oak give the impression that luxury has more to do with omission than ornamentation. Needless to say, the design enthusiast in me was thrilled. Waking up to views of Tokyo Tower and a traditional Japanese breakfast via room service (think grilled fish, simmered vegetables, and steamed rice) was truly sublime.
During my stay, I was fortunate to try Strawberry EDITION Afternoon Tea in the Lobby Bar. From strawberry rhubarb tart to rose strawberry cake, paired with a glass of non-alcoholic sparkling wine (my choice), this was the perfect way to spend a rainy afternoon. In contrast, but no less impressive, dinner at the more secluded, dimly-lit Jade Room — aptly named for its velvet green upholstery — melded Eastern and Western flavors across a variety of exquisite dishes. Here again, strawberries made an appearance, this time in the form of Miyagi strawberries, some of the finest in Japan and frequently dubbed “edible jewels” for that reason. Other standouts include the homemade sourdough bread and miso-garlic butter. In short, everything I ate at EDITION was superb.
Later, standing in the darkness of my room, gazing fixedly at the pulsing red and white of Tokyo Tower, the words of Japanese author Haruki Murakami drifted into my thoughts: “How much of this is real? he wondered. This wasn't a dream, or an illusion. It had to be real. But it lacked the weight you'd expect from reality…Strictly speaking, it might not be a dream. It was reality, but a reality imbued with all the qualities of a dream. A different sphere of reality, where—at a special time and place—imagination had been set free….He felt his heart stir, intensely, in a way he’d never before experienced, as if he'd been living for a long time in a house only to discover a secret room he’d never known about.”
Service, as expected from a 5-star property, was impeccable. To “celebrate my return to Japan,” one of the assistant managers (Alvin, I believe) graciously offered complimentary breakfast, something I never had to communicate to the staff at The Blue Room the next morning. Gifted bath amenities from bespoke fragrance brand Le Labo and an assortment of in-room chef’s sweets — green tea raw chocolate to be precise — were similarly thoughtful. Indelible among everything, however, was EDITION’s signature bergamot and black tea scent, which is featured both throughout the property and in the aforementioned bath amenities. Combine all of this and it’s easy to understand the lure of EDITION. It’s a place I always make sure to visit whenever I’m in Tokyo.
Bunkyo, Asakusa, and Ginza
What would a perfect first day in Tokyo look like? I’ve often thought about this, and while there are undoubtedly any number of possibilities, I can confidently describe at least one of them. Beginning with Yushima Tenjin Shrine, located in the Bunkyo district, south of Ueno Park, I encountered some of the first plum blossoms or ume (梅) that I ever saw in Japan, an important milestone marking my inaugural visit to the country just before peak sakura season.
Amidst brilliant whites and fluorescent pinks, Mejiro or warbling white-eyes, small passerine birds with an affinity for the nectar of springtime blossoms, zipped and darted from tree to tree. An occasional breeze sent petals twirling through the air before they settled on the ground. Later, a group of schoolchildren wearing matching white and yellow uniforms appeared — a common occurrence at Yushima Tenjin Shrine, which is dedicated to the Shinto god of Learning. This was the scene on a cold morning in late February. It’s no exaggeration to say that, like so many scenes across Japan, this one seemed to be pulled straight from a Studio Ghibli film. My enthusiasm for being back in one of the most incredible cities in the world was eclipsed only by the vitality of spring.
A short train ride away, I found myself in Asakusa, one of Tokyo’s most cherished neighborhoods for its retro charm and oldest temple complex, Sensō-ji. Notable eateries included Asakusa Unana (浅草うなな), a viral unagi restaurant, and Chacha Futatsume (茶々工房ふたつめ), known for its matcha Mont Blanc or spiralized green tea chestnut purée atop vanilla soft-serve in a waffle cone. One thing about Japan that’s always amused me is the sheer ubiquity of ice cream, something that’s evident throughout Asakusa and perhaps one reason that makes it so memorable. While the popular promenade, Nakamise Street, can get extremely crowded by early morning, the neighboring Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center offers more relaxed views via a free observation deck on its 8th floor.
In the afternoon, I arrived at Le Forum, a gorgeous exhibition space inside Maison Hermès. Located in the affluent shopping district of Ginza and designed by legendary architect Renzo Piano, the building acts as a kind of magic lantern thanks to its glass-brick facade, illuminating the space within, including Le Forum. Ample natural lighting, high ceilings, and minimalist interiors highlight contemporary art from around the world while offering respite from the bustling city streets outside. Visiting this prestigious but lesser-known exhibition space was the perfect way to end what was ultimately a perfect day.
So often, it seems that the best days of our lives creep up unexpectedly. It wasn’t until much later that I realized February 19, 2024 was one of them. I had been listening to Fred Again’s Actual Life 2, and the chorus from one track, Tanya (Maybe Life), resonated in a way it seldom had before: “Maybe life, maybe life ain’t as bad as it seems.” How could it be when days like this existed? From quiet temple visits to traditional tea ceremonies to mindfulness meditation practices and beyond, Tokyo is ripe with experiences that invite contemplation but, perhaps more notably, gratitude. This may be the reason, most of all, why I’m so fond of the city. The fact that this experience can exist alongside virtually every modern-day convenience imaginable is a stunning contradiction but one that’s inherent to Tokyo’s magnetism. It’s a place that continues to fascinate me.